…masterclass on "living soil" , this time at REAL, hosted by Tom Lubbe and Craig Hawkins, two South African winemakers. Tom pioneered a biodynamic way of farming in South Africa in the 90′s and is now making wine in the Roussillon at Domaine Matassa and Craig makes wine for Lammershoek and under his own label Testalonga. One of the typical characteristics of a living soils are earth worms and Craig spoke about the earth worm farm at Lammershoek, created to introduce …
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…and personalities are contagious. From the irreverent Adi Baedenhorst and creative Craig Hawkins, to the focused Chris Mullineux and rock star Eben Sadie, inclusive of the talented and aspiring David Sadie...the Swartland team is creating a revolution that's hard not to root for. It was an honor to spend time with all of them this year. Their wines are thrilling, unique, and of a quality unseen in such consistent fashion anywhere else on the continent.
These wines are woefully …
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This wine is a personal project of Craig Hawkins, winemaker at Lammershoek Winery. I tasted the wine in South Africa and then again at dinner at AKA Bistro. The bottle is impossible to find, but it shows that the quality chenin blanc from Swartland's old vines combined with vision fueled natural wine making religion can create dreamy wines of distinct character and personality. Whole clusters, carbonic maceration, full lees contact, and wood bring the fruit together in ways …
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…wines. Joly can push chenin to controversial limits, Testalonga's Craig Hawkins is experimenting with whole fruit fermentation and making chenin as you would make red wine, and the Joly and Closel both have a few years on these other wines. But the fact of the matter is that I enjoyed, no-loved, these other wines on separate occasions with dinner. Yet if I relied on the results of this tasting I would have never drank them with a meal and would have missed those exciting and rewarding …
…Cortez this month and I wouldn't be surprised to see it on August's top three wine list. Craig Hawkins is a wine making force that you will undoubtedly hear a lot more about in the coming years.
( *** 1/2 $ 18) 2006 Hecht & Bannier Minervois Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon
I am not familiar with many negociants working the Languedoc. They may exist, but I don't know of too many. Hecht & Bannier started in 2002 and visits hundreds of wineries …
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…David Sadie, Eben Sadie, Chris Mullineux, and Craig Hawkins, he epitomizes the thumb to the nose, do it "my way", pioneering, radical but humble, and unconventional attitude fueling one of the most significant modern day regional winemaking upheavals.
Here is a slice of Adi, who incessantly underplays his very own vision-fueled winemaking mastery, overplays irreverence, and underscores the rear view mirror perspective that Swartland winemakers use to triangulate their course …
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